Comments for Turbo T-Jet motor repair story, info, - and thanks

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Aug 22, 2015
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Any of those thermal switch left?
by: Depfrz

With the help of my dad and my buddy Bob we managed to troubleshoot down to that thermal switch. The switch itself has a nick or burn mark in the side where I can see the wire on the inside. It appears that it is shorted to the housing. The link Andrew left appears to still be good, 20 for $15. If anyone have any left, I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I guess I can be the source for next 19 guys.

Jerry Gladwell
Depfrz@yahoo.com

Jul 25, 2014
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Still working after a yr
by: Ed

I too had the same problem and this site helped me out. Andrew was kind enough to send me one and it still going strong.

Jul 24, 2014
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It's been quite a while. Not sure I have the url
by: Anonymous

but see the comment below, send me private mail per that comment, as I still have a couple of these kicking around.

P.S. It's a year later, and mine is still running just fine.

Jul 24, 2014
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Source for thermal switch?
by: Tim

I was happy to find this as I was just about to try by passing the switch on a hunch.
Can you share the site at which you found this switch? Searching web, but no luck.
Thanks

Jul 26, 2013
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If you send me an envelope, I'll send you one.
by: Andrew Pollack

Drop me an email at "AndrewJayPollack@gmail.com" and we can swap details. I've got a few of them left over and wouldn't mind dropping one in the mail.

TIP FOR THOSE WATCHING: When you replace this, inspect all the wires to the motor. With the jostling they can get frayed. I re-heat shrinked one of them. ALSO, when soldering the connections, I let the sensor itself sit in a cup of ice-water to act as a heat sink so it didn't fry from heat coming up the wire.

Finally: Be careful tucking it all back into the housing and filling it with oil. Make sure the loose wires or sensor can't impinge on any moving parts in the motor area or it will get stuck and not spin and you'll have to do it again (Not to say this happened to me or anything)

Jul 26, 2013
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bad thermal switch
by: Ed

I also read your article with great interest, I was having the same problem with my monster (what my wife and I call our aquabot) I first thought it was the run cap because it was starting then stopping as if the capacitor was weak or not engaging. My cap is external so I checked it and it tested ok but I changed it anyway. I still had the problem. I took the motor apart and didn't see the thermal switch. after reading this post I took a second look and found it tucked up inside the motor. I pulled it out, cut it out and jumped the wires and the pump ran continuously so I hess I have the same problem.
Do anyone want to sell me one you have left over?
Ed

Jul 03, 2013
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get the switch from china. oil was easy.
by: Anonymous

I used Lucas synthetic compressor oil from NAPA. It's great stuff. It took about 3 weeks to get the thermostat from China (came in a bag of 20 of them). I kept a few and gave the rest of the bag to a local company that does motor rebuilding.

Make sure you "bucket test" the motor for 24 hours before putting it in your pool to make sure it doesn't leak. Clean it off really well, put it in a bucket of water and leave it. Maybe clean it again and change the water. Then leave it 24 hours and if there's no oil on the water, you're good to go.

Jul 03, 2013
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thanks
by: Anonymous

Thanks What kind of oil did you out in it? I spilled most of it taking it apart.

I guess the only place to the switch is from China

Jun 30, 2013
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yes, that's the one.
by: Anonymous

that's the switch. My theory is that there's just enough give through the gasket to the motor that over time, pulling on the cord puts tension on the power wire going into that thermostat and increases resistance in it enough that it generates its own heat and fails.

I have a package of 20 of them now, of which I need one. I was going to drop 15 or so of them off at the motor repair shop near me that helped me out in the past, as they also said they had trouble getting them.

Jun 30, 2013
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Same problem
by: Dave

I opened my motor to start trouble shooting. I read a lot of articles about the capacitor being bad. When running open I heard the thermal switch clicking. If I bypass the switch the motor does not turn off. so like you I think it is the switch, plus the switch is so much easier to changer then the caps. The PN written on my switch is CR-KW 85 Degrees C Think it is the same switch?

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